PERRIN FILTER Q & A

Everyone has an air filter on their engine (at least you should!) andthis goes true for all types of things that that suck in airconstantly.  Yes even you have a filter; your nose has them built intoit as does your air passageway.  But we are talking about your car herewhich sucks in way more air than you do, so it has much more specialfiltering needs.  Also we are talking about a filter for yourperformance engine where we care about air flow. If you are readingthis article and thinking this is all about high HP engines, there issome good info even grocery getter GEO owner can get from this.

Why do I need a filter?  If you like coffee, you need to filter out thegrounds so your cup isn't full of the gritty grounds.  If you like tobreathe clean air in your house, you need a filter on yourheating/cooling system.  Your engine also likes clean air to keep dirtout of its precise and vital inner workings.  With out a filter overthousands of miles, small dirt particles can cause engine wear whichleads to loss in performance, efficiency and can lead to enginefailure.  Imagine sand paper dragging across every little part in yourengine eventually wearing down things like piston rings, bearings andcausing build up on valves, killing power and efficiency.  No one wantsthat!

A filter needs to filter dirt out of the air, and still allow air toflow into the engine.  A filter needs to do this while acting as thoughit's a big open hole allowing air into the engine (no restriction).  Sohow can you make a big open hole also keep out dirt and debris?  Laserscould work, but lasers and the dirt-tracking system might not be costeffective.  But really, there are lots of ways to do this simply andcost effective.

Types of Filters

There are lots of types of filters out there.  The most common is theOEM style paper filter, simple effective, but not efficient.  OiledPaper is along these same lines, but not very common (GT-R has them),more restrictive but even better filter.  Then we get into theaftermarket world and the name K&N comes up. These are also knownas gauze filters, and there are tons of versions of this style outthere. By far this is the most common type in the aftermarket world. One recent variant of this is a dry version which doesn't use oil likethe K&N.  One of the more little known types is foam. Foam is theleast popular not because it doesn't work, but rather because it's notmarketed very well, and K&N has a much bigger budget here.  What'sfunny is the story is quite opposite if you are a motorcycle.  In theoff road world foam is the winner! One more to mention is the StainlessSteel mesh type.  This is a dry type filter consisted of a very tightlywoven Stainless Steel mesh.  We will hit on all these filters below andgive them a fair comparison.

Paper Filters

As I said filters have to filter, and flow at the same time.  In orderfor a filter to flow, the microscopic holes have to be open enough or alarge enough quantity of them, to allow air to pass through it.  Inorder for it to stop dirt, these holes can't be too big or your filterwon't filter very well. OEM's have to balance the size of the filter'smicroscopic holes and the quantity of them (surface area) to get themost from the filter.  Because the OEM's typically use a paper type ofconstruction (inexpensive method of construction), they are limited ina lot of ways.  This paper type of filter is the most common type offilter, and isn't too much different than your coffee filter. The onlyreal difference is the way the OEM pleats the filter to gain moresurface area.  This is an essential part to making a paper filter flowmore air as they are restrictive in their nature.

The cross section above (while crude) shows how pleating adds atsignificantly more surface area to the filter.  These paper filters area single dry layer of material simply blocking dirt bigger than itssmallest hole. While good this means in order to block small particlesof dirt, it must be restrictive.   One last benefit of paper filters isthe media is rigid. This keeps the filter from collapsing on it selfand eliminates the need for a cage.  One large downfall is when thefilter gets dirty you throw it away and buy a new one. This not onlycost you more money be also creates more waste. Do not try to wash thistype or you will quickly discover that the media expands and turns intoa block-er not a filt-er.  While this is the most common, there aremany may more types of filters besides paper.

K&N (AKA Gauze)

The next most common type is the gauze or K&N type.  K&N isvery well known and they should be as they really are the ones whobrought performance air filters to the aftermarket world.  Theirprinciple works very similar to a paper filter, but 2 things make itwork much different.  The media is much more open (significantly biggerholes), and the media is oiled!  The filter media is a few layers ofvery open gauze material.  The larger holes/air passages are what makethis flow so well.  But the bigger holes mean more dirt gets past it,right??  This is where the oil comes into play. The oil creates asticky layer that as the dirt runs into the media, it gets stuck init.  So instead of blocking dirt it's catching it!  Oil on the filteris what really makes this rather "open" filter work.

 An up close picture of a layer of the gauze material.  Left is one layer right is multiple oile layers. 

The K&N filters are also pleated to increase its filtering abilityand to increase its dirt holding capacity.  While this does make itsimilar to a paper filter, if you look closely you will see a screen onboth sides of the filter. This is needed because the gauze material isvery flimsy and it needs support.  The "cage" provides the support sothe media doesn't get sucked into engine and also makes for a durableouter layer to protect against large debris.  The diagram below shows across section of a gauze filter and you can see the screen on the topand bottom of each layer and the gauze in the middle.

The diagram below shows how dirt typically collects on any type ofpleated filter. As dirt tries to pass through it, the dirt collects inthe corners.  While this doesn't affect the filter from filtering dirt,it makes it very restrictive and doesn't provide a very longer servicelife before it needs to be cleaned, or thrown away.  Go out to your carand grab the OEM filter or the K&N from your intake and you willsee this example.

The other revolutionary thing about the K&N filter is its washable! You do not have to throw it away, you just clean it and re-oil it! But you do loose some of the material every time you wash it.  Itsounds like we are saying the K&N type of filter is the way to go,but hold your horses! 

The K&N filter in almost everyway is better than an OEM filter, butif you compare it to other filter types you start to see some majordownfalls.  K&N filters do have "The Name", the marketing andcelebrity endorsements, which is why they are so well known and "seem"to have a superior product............

New World Filter

In the world of aftermarket filters, everything is cleanable.  Most useoil as the media the catches the dirt, which then is cleaned and reapplied, some are dry type filters and are just washed and dried buteither way the aftermarket filters are always reusable in one way oranother.  So we won't get into that to much as this is a something toexpect and something you shouldn't even have to ask of an aftermarketfilter manufacturer.

Foam, something you sit on everyday, sleep on at night, and somethingyou find in your morning latte and even in filters??  Foam filters arenot something we invented but we are here to educate you why they arethe best.  To do this we created some diagrams to help you betterunderstand foam filters and how they work compared to the K&N.

The diagrams should help explain how foam, gauze and dry type filterswork.  The first thing to understand is filters are filters. They haveto stop dirt by either blocking or catching it. Most aftermarketfilters catch dirt by using thick oil on the media.  This allows for amore open filter element to flow better and still allow for the filterto filter.  Some of the dry type filters really block more than catch. The dirt is kept from passing through the filter by very very smallopenings. Which works fine for filtering, but not for flowing whendirty.  All these points have examples below.

Paper and Dry Filters

First up is a dry type filter which is like an OEM paper type or likethe stainless steel mesh type.  These are a single layer of filteringmedia and are a blocking type of filter.   Below is an example of 15and 50 parts of dirt on a single layer of filtering media.  Thefiltering media is much closer together as it needs to block the smalldirt particles.  The below drawings are to give you an idea of how theywork and may not be 100% accurate.

You can see at 50 parts of dirt, its really not a filter anymore.  Evenat 15 parts its starting to get restrictive. A paper filters relys onone thing to keep functioning, you buying a new one every year! TheStainless Steel mesh type filters rely on you stopping the engine. When you stop the engine and there is no vacuum pulling on the dirt andit SHOULD fall off.   But does it??  Does dirt just fall off your carwhen you stop?  If it did I wouldn't need to buy so many micro fibertowels to wash my car.  Dry filter companies try to push their productas safe with MAF sensors.  Its true they are safe with MAF sensors anddon't have a chance to get oil on the precision parts of a MAF sensor. But oil from a foam or gauze filters rarely gets to the MAF.  This istrue when cleaned properly.  More on this later...

Gauze vs. Foam

Next up is an example of a cross section of a gauze filter versus atypical foam filter.  We say typical because they can be much denser ormore open.  The gauze filter is constructed of a few layers of gauze(not to much different than your bandages).  Again this is a typicalversion of the filter as there could be more layers than shown orless. 

With a low amount of dirt (represented by 15 parts of dirt) flowingthrough the filter you can see it's very open and still flows air justfine.  Start to add more dirt (50 parts of dirt) and you can see how itcan clog up.  The dirt gets stuck to the oil coated gauze.  As far asthis goes it's a great filter and it captures dirt just fine.  But themore dirt, the less flow.  The less flow, the less power!

In this example comparing the gauze type filter with 15 parts of dirtversus the foam with the same 15 parts, you can see how they are bothpretty open.  But comparing the gauze with 50 parts and the foam with50 parts you can see how the gauze gets clogged and the foam is stillvery open.  The 50 parts represents what you will see at a normalservice interval of 5-10K miles.

The foam has a much larger cross section and also has more places forthe dirt to stick to.  It also is much more open which is great forflow.  The large open cross section is has very random passages throughit which means the air can't go straight through it. The dirt alsocan't go straight through it, which is how the dirt gets "caught" inthe filter.  The many layers foam has, and the passage the air/dirt hasto take is the main reason foam works so well.

The below diagram is an extreme loaded situation where 100 parts ofdirt represent a filter with more than 2 years of service.  You can seethat the gauze is basically clogged and while still filtering dirt theair flow is significantly cut down.  But it's not something you willnotice as this process is very gradual. What you will notice is thatwhen you clean the filter your car will get better mileage and feelsnappier.

In these extreme conditions 100 parts of dirt in a foam filter isnothing!  In fact 200 parts in these examples still leaves room for airto pass through.  There is a reason why foam has a cleaning periodalmost 2 times longer than a gauze filter (the period before a loss ofperformance is felt). Imagine you are a dirt bike and you operate industy conditions.  Which filter are you going to want?  This is kind ofextreme but there is reason to why foam filters are found on nearlyevery single off road vehicle in the world. 

This is an example of how foam collects dirt.  In this pic you can seethe dirt being trapped through the whole filter, not just the top layerlike gauze filters and other dry type filters.  This filter is was cutin half with only a few hundred miles on it to show how the dirt getstrapped through out the whole filter.

This is an example done with the typical gauze filter and our foamfilter.  A single layer of each filter was put on a light table (LEDlights) and under each piece is a sticker in the shape of an arrow. Youcan see how thin the gauze filter is by how much light is let throughit. The light represents holes and represents in turn its lack ofpotential filtering. 

Keep I mind these are just basic examples of how filters work andexamples to help explain in a somewhat simple way how one is betterthan another.  Yes they may be slightly skewed to favor foam, but thereis a reason why we push foam over all other types!

MARKETING BS

Companies with these dry type or gauze types of filters all show thesame thing comparing them to other filters using graphics like this. These kinds of graphics are used to throw you off the trail of thebetter filter and make theirs look best.  This one is trying to sellyou on a gauze filter. 

Shown above is a stock type filter, foam filter, then a gauze type. Notice how the stock panel filter is depicted at not filtering verywell. OEM filters filter very well, which is why they are restrictive. Then notice how the dirt is collecting in the corners of the pleat. This part of the diagram is correct.  Then they show a foam filter notfiltering which is nottypical of how they work.  To be fair, a foam filter can be made withvarying cells per inch and they could be depicting one made with toofew cells per inch, making it very open and not a good filter.  Lastlythey show a filter of their own where ZERO dirt passes through it whichis basically impossible as all filters let some pass through.  Then itshows how the dirt collects on all surfaces, not just he cracks. Again, this is not correct.    You can see that there is some fudginggoing on here making one filter look better than another.   

Another example showing how OEM filters and Foam filters are bad.  Thenumbered points are not something we have put together, themanufacturer has.  These are the drawings and words right off K&N'swebsite.

As the dirt builds up it does get more restrictive, this is true on allfilters.  The need to replace the filter at 10K miles is also true, butso is cleaning your aftermarket filter at 10K.  The fibers can swellwhen blow-by oil touches it, but no modern engine plumbs the crank casevents in front of the filter, so there is no way oil will see it. These points are kind of lame on their part.

The lack of surface area??  If you could actually measure this, foamwould have many many times the surface area of a K&N.  Dirt doesn'tbuild up on the outside; it builds up trough the whole filter allowingit to flow when dirty.  If higher vacuum pulls more dirt deeper intothe foam, then doesn't that give more dirt hold capacity?  Airflow isreduced as cells become blocked; this is true, but reduced by howmuch??  It takes significantly more dirt to "block" a foam filter thana K&N so why would they say this?  I know why.......

Another thing these diagrams are showing is how air gets turbulentpassing through it.  On any filter that has multiple layers (where thedirt can't pass straight through) the air has to make turns before itpasses through.  This creates turbulence.  So, even the K&N typecreates turbulent air as it passes through it.  The only filter thatmay not have turbulent air is the SS mesh type, but these are stillpleated which leads to turbulent air. In the end this doesn't matter asingle bit on a turbo car (I think on any car actually) because theturbo creates a lot more turbulence than any air filter will.  This isan over played fault of OEM and foam filters and supposedlynon-existent on K&N type filters.

All companies have a section that explains why theirs is the best.  Thebig companies (that think they do not have to sell you on theirfilters) hide or manipulate this info to throw you off track.  It's agood thing because some of this info is contradictive, or if comparedto another filter can raise questions.  

Another thing you will see is there are lots of tests filter companieshave done comparing lots of different filters with air flow tests, dirtholding capacity tests and things like that. But they tend to leave outfoam, I wonder why??

HOW DO WE SELL THEM:

HP??  Are you sure??

We sell our filters by saying all filters when new flow about thesame.  But when dirty, foam continues to flow more air. In an exampleof an OEM filter being replaced with a PERRIN foam filter (on an STI),we see about a 3 wheel Horse Power gain.  This is not much at all andnot something you can generally notice.  So its not that your stockfilter when clean is super restrictive, but throw 10,000 miles at it,and the story changes.

Another feature our filters have is we make them thinner than OEMfilters.  In many cases this helps with making HP by freeing up areabetween the air box and filter. 

CPI

Our filters have a CPI (cell per inch) spec that we feel is perfectlyoptimized for both performance and filtering.  Some foam filtercompanies use a very low (meaning very open) CPI, and while these canflow better initially, they do not filter very well. We are talkingabout Air "filters" here so the filtering aspect is an important one toconsider.

Above shows 2 different variations of cells per inch. You can see thetop one is more open and the lower one is denser.  A perfect balance ofopen vs. closed is necessary to get performance from the filter as wellas good filtering.

Oiled for your protection! 

All our foam filters are oiled with special thick, oil that clings tothe foams structure.  This special oil is what makes our filter,filter!  The oil is what stops the dirt from passing through the filtergetting into your engine.  The oil is what catches the tiny littleparticles that would normally pass through the open holes in a dry typefilters.  The only dry type filters you will find around our shop areOEM ones we have thrown away or our foam filters in the middle of beingcleaned!  Dry filters rely on the very very small openings (as seen inthe pics above) to stop dirt. Then they rely on being cleaned veryoften to get rid of the dirt to keep it flowing freely.

Cleanabilty

Unlike other cleanable cone type filters, our filter is easy to clean,and clean well.  Typically when its time to clean your K&N orsimilar, you have to spray it down with degreaser and hope you got itdeep enough to clean through the entire filter. Then when its time tooil it, you have to over oil it to ensure you get oil through the wholething.  If you remember earlier I mentioned how dry filter companiespush that their filters don't hurt MAF sensors due to no oil.  Overoiling is not good for MAF sensors and this is another reason why ourfilters are so good.   

Our new version filter lets you remove the foam part of the intakeseparate from the cage. This means you can physically work thedegreaser into the entire thickness of the foam to clean out ALL of thedirt.  Then when it comes time to oil it, only a small amount of oil isneeded as you can work the oil through out the whole filter.  Thismeans less oil is used and less chance of over oiling that might affectthe MAF sensor.  Also it keeps waste to a minimum.

Here is a video we made showing this off.

No rubber here.....

The way our filter is constructed is also different than others in thematerials we use. The cage is a zinc plated steel cage to keep thefilter media from collapsing on its self.  This is very normal for allfilters, but where ours differs is in the base.  Our base is made ofurethane.  Urethane is like rubber, but more durable, and moreresistant to heat than rubber. Also over time urethane will notdeteriorate and crack like rubber.  It also has a broader range ofoperating temps compared to rubber, which means when extremely coldout, it won't get brittle and break. 

Panel Filters and Cone Filters

We have shown you how a foam filter is superior in many ways over allother types, its important to understand how it all comes together withan intake system. 

Up till now the discussion has revolved around OEM and aftermarket typepanel filters which are meant to fit in the OEM intake boxes.  The samelogic can be applied to cone type filters if you are comparing similarsizes from one another.  But keep in mind that with OEM intake systems,these are limited to airflow and filter area based on the size of thefilter it starts out as. Meaning if you have an OEM air box that has a8"x8" filter in it, you can't install a bigger filter, nor can youraftermarket panel filter have more surface area to flow more air. Itstill can't flow more air than the 8"x8' hole.  This concept isimportant to understand as the big gains in HP from replacing filtersisn't had by replacing panel filters with better aftermarket panelfilters. In this case the biggest feature is, not having to replace thefilter every year. 

Big gains can be had when a properly designed intake system that uses acone type filter is installed.  The cone type filter has a huge benefitof sucking air through a nearly infinitely size space.  This is animportant thing to understand.  If a cone filter is sitting in a fenderwell, the filter has a huge amount of area to suck air from.  Thisallows a larger overall size filter to be used which increases thesurface area of the filter for flow and for collecting dirt.   If youput this same larger filter a box that an 8"x8" panel filter was in,its still restricted in its flow and cleaning ability as its nowcrammed into a tiny area.  Imagine going out for a run in park thengoing for a run in a bathroom.  Where do you want to go for a run? This is where big HP can be had.  When a large cone filter can be usedthe maximum amount of air can be ingested by the engine.  In many caseswe have seen ZERO gains in HP when removing a properly sized conefilter from an intake on a turbo car.  Foam filter of course! 

One thing to keep in mind, with aftermarket intake systems (not justthe filter) is cars that use MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensors can be greatlyaffected by installing a high flow cone filter.  These filters canaffect the MAF sensors readings and change how the car runs, sometimesit's for the better, sometimes its worse!  In these cases keep in mindgains or losses in HP may not be properly realized without retuning ofthe ECU.   Make sure the intake you buy or cone filter you installdoesn't affect your HP in a negative way!

Many big intake system manufactures use this MAF trickery to add HP.Then claim its their wonderful filter making the HP, when it fact itsnot.  An example of an intake system that doesn't effect the MAF signalis one found here.

This shows our intake system installed on an EVO 9.  The before andafter shows the Air Fuel Ratio being the same not to mention 30 moreWheel HP.  This Intake makes HP the legit way by freeing up the intakeside of the system, not by screwing with the MAF sensor.  

This is an example of an intake system with a very picky MAF sensor andis one that requires an ECU retune in order to make the intake run thecar properly.

In this example the intake leans out the AFR to the point of beingdangerous.  This does add power initially, but the lean mixture led toengine knock, and is why the run was not completed.  You can see how insome cases the intake system weather it be a complete new system or asimple filter change, can make a huge difference in how it runs.  Thisis just a small snipet of how and why filters can effect power.  Lookshortly for a much more indepth look at how and why intakes work.

 HISTORY

The history of PERRIN filters started life back in 2002.  Our firstfilter was a barrel shaped dual layer foam filter with inner and outercage.  We felt the outer cage looked kind of cool and gave it a lookmuch different than other filters.  But was a little heavy and later onwe moved to a cone shaped filter version and hard top with no cage.This removing of the cage was a good step as it allow for much easiercleaning.  This was a great benefit of our filter and we heavily playedit up as a new feature. From there we changed to barrel shape and acouple logos later we came to the new two piece version.  In all thistime people didn't really take our weird foam filters and it might havebeen because of the color, which we took note of. The most recentchange was to a black foam!  This eliminates the issue had with thelooks of the filter and makes for an innovative way to determine if thefilter needs cleaning.  The "white" logo is used a guide for cleaningintervals.  And it makes it look really cool!

HERE ARE A FEW PICS!

RECAP

• Foam filters filter better than any other filter.
• Foam filters hold significantly more dirt than any other filter.
• Foam can be washed and reused hundreds of times.
• Foam filter service interval is 2-3 times that of other filters.
• Reusable foam filters are environmentally friendly with little to no waste.
• Foam filters are free flowing, increasing the performance of your engine.
• Foam gives better fuel economy between service intervals.
• Priced only slightly higher than an OEM paper replacement.

BONUS MATERIAL

Here is an independent test done on the largest Mitsubishi EVO forum,EvolutionM.net. This test compares many popluar filters together, andall done on the same car on the same dyno, and same day! Again moreproof the PERRIN Foam filter is the best.  If your name is John Leitlor Adam Taft, the secret password is endlink and if you actually readthis, you get a free lunch on me! This is only valid for one lunch!  

Foam filter video from Trueflow filters.  These guys are not affiliatedwith us but have gone the extra mile with this video to show you foamat work. 

Below is a test done by someone in Nevada rating all the main types of filter using SAE approved methods.

Here's the info I have on air filter performance. Tests were done using SAE J726C Test Method 5-best --> 1-worst

As you can see, K&Ns are great for airflow, which is what they weredesigned for. Their original application was on racing engines, whereairflow is important and ultimate engine life was of little consern.They are not as good at filtering as paper or oiled foam types.

 Ed Hackett   edh@maxey.unr.edu           The Desert Research Institute

 DoD #0200  WMTC  BMWRA  DIOC             Reno, Nevada   (702) 673-7380  

 KotLS  KotLE  DotD #0003           

 900SS  K100RS  501 CAMEL        

Finally!! We have both S and JCW hardpipes in stock! What is a hardpipe you ask? Well the OEM turbo inlet pipe is a RUBBER piece that does have a fair amount of RESTRICTION in the way of the inner diameter going down rather quickly. Our new hardpipe keeps the same ID longer. Check out this comparison!

We also have incorporated a double O-ring seal on the turbo itself to ensure zero leaks!

We now carry a turbo inlet hose for both the Standard Cooper S and the JCW Cooper S!

AMP-INT-432 TURBO INLET FOR COOPER S

AMP-INT-435 TURBO INLET FOR JCW COOPER S

 AVAILABLE IN BOTH RED AND BLACK!!!

PERRIN Performance has teamed up with the Ronald McDonald house to bring some JOY to needy families in Portland. Our headquarters in Hillsboro, Oregon will be collecting gifts and our staff will be taking them on to the local Ronald McDonald house for families there to enjoy. Local customers can kindly drop of gifts at our world headquarters and leave them under our giving tree. We would also like to invite local customers to come with us and help drop off the presents on Dec 19th. 

Even if you don't live near us you CAN still help!  We have made a "virtual gift" purchasable on our website. Click Here.  You can purchase these in $5 increments and we will send an employee of PERRIN to a local store and purchase a gift on your behalf in that amount! Just as if you were local we will place it under the tree in our lobby. 

Here is the list of gifts that the Ronald McDonald house is looking for! All gifts should be new and unwrapped please.

**** MOST NEEDED are items for dads/teen boys AND infants from 0-8 months AND white or neutral colored blankets/sheets for full sized beds.****

Backpacks for all ages
Photo albums and frames
Quality pots and pans
Decorative anti-bacterial liquid hand soap
Wallets
Disposable Tupperware
Hair accessories
Art sets
Sweatpants, sweatshirts, socks, slippers,
New Fleece Blankets and throws
pajamas, bath robes, fleece outerwear, gloves
Generic sheet sets (cream or white) for full,
Washable paints and markers
Queen and twin beds
Preemie clothing and diapers
Teething toys/rings/pacifiers
Receiving blankets/bibs
Hand Held Electronic Games
Infant safe stuffed animals
MP3 Players

 
LOCAL Customers........
If you would like to drop something off......
Please do so anytime between 8:00am-5:00pm Monday through Friday.
If you would like to participate in the drive to the Ronald McDonald house: Please come to our offices Dec 19th at no later than 9:30am for complimentary donuts and coffee prior to the drive. WE WILL BE LEAVING PERRIN HQ AT 10AM Sharp to go to the Ronald McDonald House!(Kindly RSVP to Jarid.Perry@PERRINPerformance.com so know how many cars will be going with us!)

PERRIN Performance
3111 N.E. Shute Rd.
Hillsboro Oregon 97124 

Ever wonder what happens when you return a part to ALTA with a little scratch or ding? How about that exhaust system that was tested on the dyno? They end up getting re-boxed and put upstairs in our attic....also known as the "garage sale" area! I spent a week going thru allllll the returns and came up with a list of parts JUST FOR MINIs!! All the parts on the list below are in LIMITED QUANTITIES and are FIRST COME FIRST SERVE! ALL SALES FINAL! To purchase these items you MUST EMAIL JARID.PERRY@ALTAPERFORMANCE.COM to get them or call 503-693-1702. These items are not purchaseable off the website!!! Pictures are available upon request...but please keep in mind that for the prices we are selling these items, the dings/scratches are MINOR and are worth every penny we are asking for them!

UNIVERSAL-UNIVERSAL-UNIVERSAL-UNIVERSAL-UNIVERSAL-UNIVERSAL-UNIVERSAL

OIL CATCH CANS- AMP-ENG-100 RED body with BLACK hose. slight nicks in powdercoat.....TWO AT $100 EACH!!

R53-R53-R53-R53-R53-R53-R53-R53-R53-R53-R53-R53-R53-R53-R53-R53-R53

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R53 GominiGO Glove Box Tidy in BLUE...We have FOUR at $20 each!

R53 "COOPER" Air Filter AMP-INT-100...Used on Dyno.....ONE at $20!!

R53 Stoptech Rear Brake Hoses. NO clips  ONE SET AT $40!!

R53 rear swaybar endlinks AMP-SUS-410. Nicks in powdercoat...ONE Set at $50!!

R53 19% Supercharger Pulley AMP-ENG-210. tape on back of pulley. peel it off!.....ONE at $40

R53 0% Lightweight Crank Pulley. AMP-ENG-500. slight nicks in anodizing...ONE at $50

R53 ALTA-Nator Pulley NEW in box.....TWO for $40 each!

R53 550cc injectors. NEW set. PERFECT for turbo setups!! TWO sets at $300 each!!!

R53 Dual Gauge Pod AMP-INR-200 PERFECT CONDITION!!  ONE AT $50!!!

R56-R56-R56-R56-R56-R56-R56-R56-R56-R56-R56-R56-R56-R56-R56-R56-R56-R56-R56-R56

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R56 Front Mount Intercooler AMP-ENG-420BK slight dings in core from shipping..ONE at $400!!

R56 Boost Tube kit in BLUE (not red as pic shows). AMP-ENG-350BL NEW in BOX!!......ONE at $150

R56 Intercooler Air Diverter AMP-ENG-310 NEW IN BOX.......TWO for $40 each!

R56 AIR INTAKES AMP-INT-400BK. NEW IN BOX.....TWO for $100 each!! 

R56 Air Intake AMP-INT-400RD. USED ON DYNO.....ONE AT $100...NEAR PERFECT!!

MORE TO COME!!!